Disassembling the IKEA KURA in 10 Easy Steps

It's always interesting to me when I see what articles bring people to this site. Some of our most popular posts are about our bedroom upgrade, especially our tutorial where we detail how we turned our IKEA KURA loft bed into a bunk bed over a trundle as well as our DIY Trundle how-to.

What's surprising to me, though, is just how much traffic we get from this post: Chaos.


It's mostly a post about all of the stressful things going on in my life last May, so I was stumped at first about all the Pinterest hits we have gotten from it.

My best guess is that people want to know how to take the IKEA KURA loft bed apart, so I thought I would actually write a post detailing how we did it.

When we went into disassembling the IKEA KURA bed, we were at a disadvantage, of course, since we hadn't actually put the bed together in the first place and had no idea where to begin. With a little problem solving and a few hints from the instructions, though, we figured it out, and it's really not that complicated. It works best if you have two people working together, especially when you get to actually dismantling the bed itself so it doesn't all crash to the floor unexpectedly. (Don't ask me how I know!) Overall, though, it's not a complicated job; it's a lot simpler to take apart than it is to put together out of the box. There may be other ways to do it, but this is what worked for us.

IKEA KURA Disassembly Tutorial:

Required Tools:

An appropriately sized Allen wrench (it's IKEA...I mean, come on. You knew you'd need one!)
A flat head screwdriver


Step One:

Locate the white plastic bolts and caps on either side of each bed slat. You will need to use a flat head screwdriver on the top cap while simultaneously using an Allen wrench on the underside of the bed where the bolt is. Turning the bolt counter clockwise while holding the cap in place will loosen the bolt until it can be removed.


Step Two:

Starting at one end of the bed, remove the bolts/caps from each side of the bed slats so that you can slide enough of the slats together to make room to angle one diagonally and slide it out of the metal railing. Continue until you have removed all of the slats from the bed.

Step Three:

Using your Allen wrench, remove the screw from the top middle ladder rung on the non-bed-end side of the ladder (the side facing the opposite end of the bed).


Step Four:

Starting at the ladder side of the bed, remove the screws from the end of the bed. There will be three on each side, though they will not be in the exact same location.

Step Five:

Carefully remove the whole end of the bed in one piece. Some of the ladder rungs will likely fall out as you pull the end piece away. If the bed has been painted, it might stick a little bit.

Step Six:

If someone can help you hold the ladder end of the bed in place while you remove the screws from the non-ladder end of the bed, this will be a lot easier. If not, you will probably want to brace the upper bed rail from the non-ladder side of the bed on something so it doesn't fall and/or break.

Step Seven:

Remove the screws from the non-ladder end of the bed like you did before. There should be six total.

Step Eight:

Carefully remove the second bed end from the side rails. You will be left with the bed rail/guard wall from the non-ladder side of the bed as well as the floor cross beam. You will also have the ladder side of the bed.

Step Nine:

The ladder is screwed into the floor cross beam on that side from underneath, and
you will likely want to remove it to make moving the pieces less unwieldy. If you have room, lay the entire section flat to unscrew the ladder from the floor piece. Otherwise, you will have to either lift the floor beam off the floor or turn the whole section over to get to it.

At this point, you will have a headboard and a foot board that are completely intact, one bed rail/guard wall with loose panels that have nothing holding them in their notches (so be careful moving it), two floor beams, two ladder rungs, sixteen or so bed slats, and one cross-shaped bed rail/guard wall with an attached ladder support and one partially loose panel.

Step Ten (Optional):

We chose to leave the head and foot of the bed intact for easier reassembly. If you wish to completely dismantle the bed, continue removing whatever screws and bolts you can find. You should be able to slide the panels out of their notches once the bed legs are all removed. The metal rails will need to be unbolted from the wood in order to take the ladder support off of the bed, so keep that in mind. Ours was screwed on very tightly, and we chose to leave it in place for transport.


To the visitors who come across this post while trying to take apart an IKEA KURA loft bed, welcome! We hope this little tutorial is helpful to you.

Comments

  1. Thanks so much for this! Moving soon and needed our KURA in biggish parts. I had put it together nearly 10 years ago, so you have definitely helped me out!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You are welcome! I'm glad this is helpful!

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